I landed in HCMC on a November night, without any plans beyond shopping and having coffee. The immigration lines were a test of patience. Thankfully my life has given me plenty of occasions to cultivate the virtue. By the time I got out of the airport my body hurt, and I was more than happy to get into the taxi and get a late night view of the city that was to be my home for the next 10 days. I could already tell that it was going to be a sweet trip.
My room was booked in an alley in District 3, right opposite a church. The church bells woke me up early on my first morning, and construction noises jarringly a little later. Thank goodness this was not a daily occurrence. After getting up and ready, armed with Google Maps and Dong bills, I forged ahead for a quick brunch. Although, instead of following any directions on the map, I followed a man walking in front of me. I came across a fast food shop and decided to get food there and leave the poor guy alone.
After that I found a convenience store, got some drinks, paid, and left. One of the guys from the store ran after me to return the change. I didn’t even know there was change and wouldn’t have noticed at all. I was preoccupied, in a new city, and clearly lost trying to back to my room. There’s a coffee shop right next to the alley where I was staying and I decided to try a cup of salt cream coffee, never having heard of it before. The way the salty sweet cream mixes with the bitter coffee is, in a way, sensual. I couldn’t get enough of it, wishing for the empty cup to be full again. Color me obsessed.
I then got back to my room and worked and rested for the rest of the day. I was happy to have a vegetarian restaurant just 5 minutes walk from that alley, where I ended up having breakfast everyday. Or rather, brunch, because I could never wake up early enough. They have good food and fresh juices and there have been few instances in my life where I have felt so completely satisfied.
The next evening, I met a friend of a friend and we ended up becoming friends too. At least I hope so. We spent the evening having our fill of some amazing food at another vegetarian restaurant, and then hopping on her bike, we went to District 1. The cafe apartment was just as I’d expected, an entire building filled with cafes and lights. In fact, the entire area was busy and lit up. It felt quite chaotic, I would have been completely overwhelmed without my friend. We went to one of the cafes in the cafe apartment. But beware, you must pay a fee to go up when you get into the elevator. We were so full from our dinner so I figured drinking some hot tea would be perfect. However, seeing passion fruit ice cream on the menu, I couldn’t resist and had to get a scoop. Tangy. And like everything there, it wouldn’t be complete without some coconut.
We walked around for a little while more, chatting, and made plans for the next day. I was super excited, like a child the night before a picnic. The next morning, I got up just on time and did not have the time to have breakfast. I hurried over to the book street and we spent an hour just walking and perusing books. I got myself some souvenirs, including a cute littlest Vietnamese conical hat, key chains, bookmarks, and magnets. I did not get a book there, though there were good options. I was worried about not having enough space in my luggage later, and I hadn’t even done any shopping yet. This caution ended up being a good thing.
Our next stop was an underground shopping place with many stores. Of course I grabbed a couple of clothing items from there. From there we went across the road to the shopping mall. It was really hot during the days, so the mall was a good call. Finally here, I got my first sip of strong Vietnamese coffee and I was ready to roll through the floor and the ceiling. But first, we had a lunch of udon. Now we were ready to roll. A mall is just like any other mall, with similar outlets everywhere. Few items were different though I did a good bit of shopping myself. My partner in crime also found satisfactory deals for herself. Overall, I think I did well that day. Since I had company, I did not give in to my insatiable shopaholic tendencies. We were tired after all the walking and stopped for fresh juice. And she suggested getting a custard-filled cream puff which we could have later as dessert.
Now we were totally hungry and ready for dinner at 6 PM. Wanting to have pizza at a popular joint, we got on her bike to one of the farther locations, because all the ones nearby seemed to be fully booked. True to the hype, their cheese pizza drizzled with honey was excellent. Each bite of the cheesy and sweet goodness felt like life coming into me. We were lost in it and once it was over, we could only look sadly at the empty plate. For dessert we had the custard puff we got earlier. Once again, I was floored. The outer part was somewhat crispy and flaky, and the custard inside was not overly sweet. I made a mess of it but i don’t think there’s a way to eat it where your hands don’t get covered in the custard and flakes don’t fly everywhere. However, at this point, I was busy contemplating whether I should move here already.
The next day, I walked out of my room to go roam around somewhere by myself, my partner having plans of her own. I had not planned anything yet. I had cramps. Having had brunch at my usual spot, I went to a coffee place that I’d seen positive reviews about. It was about a 10-minute walk from where I was, but the heat of midday made it difficult to walk that much. There, I had a coconut coffee for the first time. Creamy and perfectly balanced coffee. They’re killing it out there.
I sat there for a little while, thinking about my next steps. I had come to know of a few shopping streets around, so I picked one at random and got a grab bike there. It was hot, and already feeling tired, I walked into the first store I saw. The air conditioning made me feel a little better. Then I walked along the street, walking in and out of stores that caught my eye. I didn’t buy anything yet. Then I saw a popular footwear store and had to take a look. I spent an inordinate amount of time in there, trying to decide on one pair of shoes. It was too crowded and it seemed as if everyone was trying everything and there were shoes everywhere. Finally I decided on a pair of comfortable white ballet flats. One of my last stops was a store selling traditional Vietnamese tops for women. I got myself a short top from the sweet ladies, though they definitely charged a lot more than I think I ought to have paid. By this time, I was pretty sure I got my period and I was hurting everywhere, but I walked on to another street, not yet ready to go back. There was nothing there really, but I saw another clothing store and got a few more items. By now, I was more worried about the space in my luggage than the amount of money I’ve been spending freely. But in that regard, the worst is yet to come. Exhausted, I sat in an outdoor food spot. It was early evening and I was the only customer there at this time. I was happy to sit for a while. Skeptical about the vegetarian offerings, I could only order some fried tofu, french fries, spinach, and an apricot drink. None of which I could finish. To this day, I’m suspicious about the apricot drink. I cannot say why I felt like it was going to my head rather than my stomach. It tasted strange but also didn’t have a strong taste of anything. I crave it every now and then.
The next couple of days I spent relaxing in my room and working and trying out different spots for dinner. Some were hits and others misses. Once I was feeling better, I went to the War Museum. I thought I knew what I was walking into, but one can never be prepared to see everything there. My skin felt raw, my heart and feet heavy. While there’s much to be in awe about the indomitable human spirit and much to learn, why do some people go on to inflict such levels of damage. While this museum is a collection of the past and how it bleeds into the present, countless people in different parts of the world continue to face similar pains. Still it goes on, the bombs, the chemical weapons, crying children and weeping adults. Where does this end?
As for me, I spent even more money. I got accessories from the souvenir store on the ground floor, and spent millions of Dong on silver accessories. I shudder to even think about the price now, but at least I have nice things? Then I moved on to go to the Independence Palace. I walked quite a bit to get to the entrance which seemed to be on another end, somewhere else completely. It started to drizzle on the way and I stopped by a cafe and had an egg coffee here. How shall I describe this, it had a light egg taste, not overpowering, and it smelled nice and sweet. The consistency was thick on top, and light and really bitter at the bottom. This was the egg coffee that I had, I’m sure there’s different places with different egg coffee.
The Independence Palace was fascinating as well. Plenty of guided tours were happening but I hadn’t booked any. I followed people at random and clicked loads of pictures. It started to thunder and rain heavily in the middle of my solo tour, they closed the open balconies. I’m sure the palace is supposed to have a specific shape based on some Chinese characters which mean something. I was simply lost time and again. I was tired not only from walking, but also from carrying my souvenirs. It was a small bag, but its weight in guilt and shame was ten-fold. Coming across a souvenir store here, I ended up buying a couple of keychains. The 2 people working there were sweet and we had a short conversation, so I felt obliged to get something. Then I ended up following a French guided tour to the bunker and kitchen. These 2 sections of the palace were especially fascinating, the old tools, maps, and rooms meant for different purposes. To think that it wasn’t all that long ago.
Done with the tour and the rain having stopped mercifully, I got a grab bike back to my room. From there I got a beloved salt cream coffee from the coffee shop next to the alley for some energy for the rest of the day. Have I mentioned that I love salt cream coffee? The owner remembered my order from the last time, maybe I also love the coffee maker.
The next day, I had some plans. I went to one of the popular nail and spa spots. The walk there was chaotic with bikes everywhere and not enough place to walk. But I got there and got a quick hair wash and pedicure and got my nails done for the first time ever. I decided to go all out for this occasion and got long nails with loosely gothic inspired symbols. Though considering the time of the year, they looked more Christmas nails than gothic. The nail artist was in her zone, she didn’t take a break, and I wondered how her back wasn’t hurting when mine was. I loved how the nails looked and while I wasn’t used to long nails, I wanted to make the most of this time.
I headed on to District 1 after that, I wanted to take the double-decked bus tour of the city at night. Having plenty of time, I had an iced tea and killed some time at the store. One of the staff members working there was so sweet and shared their suggestions, and later when I saw them again when they were cleaning up, they asked if everything was alright. I live for little human interactions, so bereft I’ve felt for long.
Now I started to feel really hungry, my stomach rumbling like the thunder the previous day. Thank goodness there was no one around to hear. I found an Indian restaurant on the map and headed there, it was close by. The egg fried rice and Manchurian with thick gravy filled my stomach and my soul. The quantity was a lot and, as usual, I couldn’t finish it. The staff was even better than the food and that’s saying something. The manager and the crew working there were really kind. I must add that I felt genuineness in my interactions here. Everyone was kind and lovely, and not trying to sell me something (I was buying anyways). By no means can I generalize an entire population and I was there only for a few days, and had few interactions. I want to say that most interactions I had felt genuine and friendly. And the remaining were just neutral.
I walked out of the restaurant feeling joy and gratefulness in my heart and soul and stomach. I got the bus tickets and got in line. Families and other tourists waiting in line looked like they were having a good time and enjoying themselves, and I was feeling that way by looking at them. The mood was light, the night was breezy, the temperature was ideal. I was at the end of the line and when a bus arrived, I didn’t think there would be space for me on this one. True to my calculation, when a staff member stopped the moving line at me, the people behind me rejoiced at not having to get left-over seats. The family right behind me were in total celebration, they also included me in it. It was short-lived though, because my calculation was not exact and they did have 5 empty spots. I climbed into the bus hesitatingly and to the top deck, but found a “window” seat and sat relieved and glad. This was also short-lived. I’m not sure of what was going on, but I guess there were 2 couples who came up after me and saw only 3 seats available. One of the staff members pulled me up to the front to an empty aisle seat, because of course it doesn’t matter where a single (alone, all by themselves) person sits. Slightly annoyed I sat next to a guy, who was in a group of 3 friends, 2 of whom were sitting behind us. They asked him if he was gwenchana. I don’t know whether or not he was, I certainly wasn’t feeling very gwenchana with how this turned out. We exchanged hellos and the bus started off.
If I started this tour a little put out, I certainly wasn’t by the end. I felt like I was floating up above everything, even my own body, as if I don’t even exist here. Soaking the moonshine (and probably some pollution). I was in that zen zone of mind and it was spectacular. Then the guys behind us got into a brief rendition of Ring Ding Dong. When the bus finally stopped, I was sad to get off. On the ground, my momentary companions went their own way, and I felt lost. I guess I was not on the ground yet. Now what was I supposed to do? I didn’t want to go back to the hotel immediately. Randomly I walked here and there, checking the map, hoping for insight. I think I crossed paths with them again, they looked back and I looked back and then we went on our own ways. Never to meet again. Maybe.
It began to rain on my emotionally vulnerable being. I went into a newly opened bookstore and decided to buy things to alleviate my misery. I bought a couple of notebooks, even though I have plenty, and the novel The Turn of the Screw by Henry James. I’ve read it now and don’t really understand it. After the rain had stopped, I got back to my room, a little happy and a little sad.
The next day, I went back to District 1 to meet up with my friend before I left the country. By this time, my new nails were irritating me. I couldn’t do basic things and even buttoning up my jeans took so much time. They looked good though. The conflicting feelings weren’t helping me. When my friend arrived, we went to the mall there and looked in a few stores, just walking around. She got me green bean cakes, coconut chips, coconut coffee packs, and sesame seed bars to take with me. The delectable snacks and coffee are long gone by now, every bite and sip thoroughly enjoyed. We decided to go to a vintage store in one of the shopping buildings nearby and walked over. There’s so much good stuff there, and I wanted to pick up so many things. I got a few clothes and accessories. This was right next to the underground place we went to earlier and we lamented missing it then. For dinner, we had udon at the same outlet as last time, and my nails made it so difficult to use the chopsticks. I have a hard time with chopsticks as it is. Then we walked back to the D1 center to where my friend’s bike was parked. On the way, she pointed out an ice cream place and we had a glass of coconut ice cream with fruits.
Finally we parted ways. I was sad for the day to end, dreading the packing that I had to do. I got it done somehow and got back to BKK. I took the trains to get into the city, hauled luggage everywhere, fought off a humongous cockroach, and finally made it home. Needless to say, I was exhausted. A warm shower later, I slept off to finish my trip. I was doing laundry for the next 2 days and getting back to a routine and the realities of my life. Where can I get some salt cream coffee in Bangkok?



